Ballabio is the historic sparkling wine house of Casteggio, in Oltrepò Pavese, founded in 1905 by Angelo Ballabio to make traditional-method wine from Pinot Noir alone; in 1931 it became purveyor to the Royal House. The Farfalla line is named after a vineyard on the San Biagio hill whose outline on the land-registry map traces a butterfly's wings.
The Extra Brut is a pure Pinot Noir from limestone hillsides, vinified as a white wine and refermented in bottle. It spends about 30 months on the lees and receives a minimal dosage that keeps its tension.
In the glass it has a fine mousse and aromas of citrus, small red berries, white flowers and bread crust; the palate is fresh, savoury and just a touch rounder than the Zero Dosage. A good-value traditional-method Pinot Noir, excellent as an aperitif and with fried food, raw seafood and fish pasta.
At a glance: Pinot Noir 100% · 12.5% ABV · 0.75 l · Ballabio, Casteggio (PV)