Ballabio is the historic sparkling wine house of Casteggio, in Oltrepò Pavese: it was founded in 1905 by Angelo Ballabio with the idea of making traditional-method wine from Pinot Noir alone, and in 1931 it was named purveyor to the Royal House. Today it is run by the Nevelli family. The Farfalla line takes its name from a vineyard on the San Biagio hill which, on the land-registry map, has the shape of a butterfly's two wings.
The Zero Dosage is a pure Pinot Noir from limestone hills around Casteggio and neighbouring villages, fermented in steel without malolactic fermentation and with a good share of reserve wines. It spends at least 40 months on the lees and is disgorged with no added sugar.
In the glass it is taut and mineral: citrus, small red berries, bread crust and a long savoury finish, with a fine mousse. A rigorous blanc de noirs, perfect with raw fish, oysters, tempura and as a serious aperitif.
At a glance: Pinot Noir 100% · 12.5% ABV · 0.75 l · Ballabio, Casteggio (PV)