I Sodi di San Niccolò is the flagship of Castellare di Castellina, Paolo Panerai's estate in the heart of Chianti Classico. First made in 1977, it owes its name to Luigi Veronelli, who took it from the vineyard the sharecroppers called de' sodi because of its hard, stony ground. Every vintage carries a different bird on the label, from drawings by the ornithologist John Gould.
It has always been a blend of Sangioveto and Malvasia Nera, a contrarian choice at a time when Super Tuscans were turning to French grapes. It ages for up to 30 months in barriques, half of them new, then around a year in bottle.
The 2017 is the limited 40 Vendemmie edition, with a black label and a red 40, presented here in its wooden case. A hot vintage that produced a rich wine: red fruit preserves, spice, liquorice, fine tannins and a savoury finish. With game, roasts and aged cheeses; one for collectors and for the cellar.
At a glance: Sangiovese 90%, Malvasia Nera 10% · 14% ABV · 0.75 l · Castellare di Castellina, Castellina in Chianti