Domaine de l'Ecu, in the heart of Muscadet country near Nantes, was one of the pioneers of biodynamics in the Loire under Guy Bossard; since 2010 it has been run by Fred Niger, who has made it a reference for natural wine. Carpe Diem is its most ambitious take on Melon de Bourgogne, the Muscadet grape, and is released as Vin de France.
The grapes come from mainly granite soils. The wine ferments and ages for about 15 months in amphora, then rests a year in bottle; it is neither fined nor filtered, and sulphites are kept to a minimum.
The result is a white far removed from simple Muscadet: citrus, white fruit, herbs, a saline streak and a broad texture, with taut acidity and a long finish. As a serious aperitif, or with oysters, shellfish, fish in beurre blanc or goat's cheese.
At a glance: Melon de Bourgogne 100% · 12% ABV · 0.75 l · Domaine de l'Ecu, Loire