Movia is a historic estate in Slovenian Brda, at Dobrovo, right on the border with Italy's Collio; the Kristančič family has been making wine here since 1820. It is now run by Aleš Kristančič, one of Europe's most unconventional winegrowers, and Puro is his best-known wine, partly because of the ritual needed to open it.
It is an unusual traditional-method sparkler: the base wine, from Chardonnay and Ribolla Gialla, undergoes its second fermentation in bottle with the addition of fresh grape must, with no added sugar or yeast, and it is never disgorged. The lees stay in the bottle, which should be stored upside down for a few weeks and opened with the neck under water so that the sediment is expelled.
The 2017 is a bone-dry sparkling wine of real character: golden yellow, with ripe apple, citrus, bread crust and dried flowers, and a dry, savoury palate. More wine than simple bubbles, try it with raw seafood, risotto and hard cheeses.
At a glance: Chardonnay 70%, Ribolla Gialla 30% · 12% ABV · 0.75 l · Movia, Brda (Slovenia)