Massimo Piovani is a small grower in the Oltrepò Pavese, working the hills of Canneto Pavese, home of Buttafuoco, the red whose name ("spits fire") is said to evoke its warm, fiery character. Bricco in Versira is his single vineyard, registered since 2014 with the Club del Buttafuoco Storico, the association that protects the appellation's historic vineyards.
The vineyard, planted in 1994, covers just under a third of a hectare. It holds Buttafuoco's traditional grapes: mostly Croatina, with Barbera, Uva Rara and a small share of Ughetta di Canneto (Vespolina), vinified together for a red of great structure.
The 2018 is a warm, intense Buttafuoco, with ripe black fruit, plum, spice and hints of leather and tobacco showing its ongoing evolution. Open it an hour ahead and pair with braised meats, game, slow-cooked stews, cotechino and aged cheeses.
At a glance: Croatina, Barbera, Uva Rara, Vespolina · 14% ABV · 0.75 l · Massimo Piovani, Canneto Pavese (PV)