Tenuta Fornace is Andrea Rossi's estate at Rovescala, in Oltrepò Pavese just a stone's throw from the Emilia border: a sixth-generation grower, with vineyards farmed organically and biodynamically across Oltrepò and the Colli Tortonesi, and an openly natural style. Gocce di Luce is the estate's most ambitious white, a Timorasso Riserva.
Timorasso is the great white of the Tortona area, a variety that almost disappeared and has been revived in recent decades for its structure and ability to age. Here it comes from old vines on marl soils; fermentation is spontaneous with native yeasts in stainless steel, where the wine then rests at length without oak, with minimal intervention.
In the glass it is sunny and luminous: yellow flowers, hazelnut, ripe fruit and a mineral streak that keeps it taut. A white with real substance, best served not too cold with risotto, baked fish, white meat or medium-aged cheeses.
At a glance: Timorasso · 0.75 l · Tenuta Fornace, Rovescala (PV)