Barbacarlo is one of Italy's most singular wines: one vineyard, one family. The hill above Broni in the Oltrepò Pavese was given in 1884 by Carlo Maga to his nephews, who renamed it in his honour: "barba" means uncle in local dialect. Lino Maga, who died in early 2022, defended the name in a long legal battle that he won, and the estate is now run by his son Giuseppe.
The vineyard is a very steep amphitheatre facing south-west on tufaceous soils, with Croatina, Uva Rara and Ughetta (Vespolina) vines, some of them very old. The winemaking is traditional throughout: spontaneous fermentation, about a week's maceration, ageing in old Slavonian oak casks and bottling in spring, without filtration.
The 2019 bears the classic Barbacarlo stamp: dark fruit, cherries in spirit, spice and earth, lively acidity and rustic but honest tannins. A wine of character and great longevity; with cotechino, Varzi salami or braised meats.
At a glance: Croatina 40%, Vespolina 40%, Uva Rara 20% · 15% ABV · 0.75 l · Az. Agr. Barbacarlo Lino Maga, Broni (PV)