Few Italian wines are so closely bound to one place and one person. Barbacarlo is the hill above Broni in the Oltrepò Pavese that Carlo Maga left to his nephews in 1884 ("barba" is dialect for uncle); Lino Maga, "Mr Barbacarlo", turned it into a cult wine and defended its name in court until he won. Since his death in 2022, his son Giuseppe has carried on.
The vineyard, a monopole of a few hectares on extreme slopes with tufaceous soils, is planted with Croatina, Uva Rara and Ughetta. Winemaking is as it has always been: native yeasts, short maceration, ageing in large old Slavonian casks and no filtration.
The 2020 is a generous Barbacarlo: black cherry, blackberry, pepper, earthy and floral notes, with vibrant acidity and firm tannins that call for time. A wine that breaks the mould and can evolve for decades; with Oltrepò charcuterie, boiled meats or risotto alla pavese.
At a glance: Croatina 40%, Vespolina 40%, Uva Rara 20% · 15% ABV · 0.75 l · Az. Agr. Barbacarlo Lino Maga, Broni (PV)