Barbacarlo is one of Italy's most unconventional and cherished wines, and the name of a single hill: the vineyard on the slope above Broni, in Oltrepò Pavese, already recorded in the land register of 1886. "Barba Carlo" is local dialect for Uncle Carlo, after Carlo Maga. Lino Maga first bottled it in 1958 and fought for more than twenty years to keep the name tied to his vineyard alone; today the estate is run by his son Giuseppe.
The vineyard is extremely steep, facing south-west on tufaceous soils, planted with Croatina, Uva Rara and Ughetta (Vespolina). The approach is traditional: spontaneous fermentation in old Slavonian oak casks, no selected yeasts, no filtration, and only sulphur in the vineyard.
The 2023 is a young Barbacarlo with dark fruit, undergrowth and spice, the typical rustic energy and a lively drinkability. A true auteur wine that also rewards cellaring: with Oltrepò salumi, risotto, boiled meats and slow-cooked stews.
At a glance: Croatina 40%, Vespolina 40%, Uva Rara 20% · 16% ABV · 0.75 l · Barbacarlo di Lino Maga, Broni (Oltrepò Pavese)