Lino Maga, the commendatore of Broni, was one of the most uncompromising figures in Italian wine: his family has made wine in the Oltrepò Pavese since the 19th century, and he fought for years to defend the Barbacarlo name, now tied to his estate alone. Montebuono is the estate's other cru, a vineyard separate from Barbacarlo on the hills of Broni.
The grapes are the area's traditional varieties, Croatina, Uva Rara and Vespolina (known locally as Ughetta), from old vines on tufaceous, sandy soils. Winemaking is old-school: spontaneous fermentation and maturation in old wooden casks, bottled unfiltered. These are living wines that change from vintage to vintage.
The 2015, a warm vintage, now has some years in bottle: dark fruit gives way to spice, undergrowth and earth, with the lively acidity typical of these grapes. A handcrafted, timeless red to drink with Oltrepò cured meats, risotto, boiled meats and cheese.
At a glance: Croatina, Uva Rara, Vespolina · 0.75 l · Barbacarlo – Lino Maga, Broni (PV)
