Few estates in Italian wine have a character as recognisable as the Maga family's at Broni. Commendatore Lino, who died in 2022, spent decades defending the Barbacarlo name and an old way of making wine; Montebuono is his other cru, a separate vineyard on the Oltrepò Pavese hills, now looked after by his son Giuseppe.
Croatina, Uva Rara and Vespolina grow on tuff and sandy soils, from old vines. In the cellar there are no selected yeasts or corrections: spontaneous fermentation and maturation in old casks, then bottling without filtration. A wine that can keep evolving in bottle and changes a lot from vintage to vintage.
The 2021 is young and full-blooded: blackberry, cherry, violet and pepper, with rugged tannins and a freshness that makes it very food-friendly. Ideal with cured meats, filled pasta, stews and cheese; the patient can forget it in the cellar for a few years.
At a glance: Croatina, Uva Rara, Vespolina · 0.75 l · Barbacarlo – Lino Maga, Broni (PV)
